BEAUTY
05/07/2013 material prepared by Natasha M
BEAUTY DISCOVERIES GIRLS WONT RESIST NEW
as i mentioned earlier BLUE GOOSE pharmacy is refurbishing changing its name to UPHARMACY (South Yarra Vogue Centre) and there are still few remaining sale items for like 90% off their original prices. girls, beauty queens and bargain hunters (like me) you can get lots of presents over there for your men and for yourself for a fraction of the original price: we bought yesterday Scent of Santa Fe shampoo and body wash for men ($12 reduced from $50) by Philip B LA brand - the smell is irresistible believe me... then for men again: nail brush all soft and natural hair and hard wood ($1.60 instead of original $15) and finally shaving soap with avocado oil and linden ($7.20 instead of original $45) by eshave NY i am set up for my father's September birthday presents at least 50%.
as i mentioned earlier BLUE GOOSE pharmacy is refurbishing changing its name to UPHARMACY (South Yarra Vogue Centre) and there are still few remaining sale items for like 90% off their original prices. girls, beauty queens and bargain hunters (like me) you can get lots of presents over there for your men and for yourself for a fraction of the original price: we bought yesterday Scent of Santa Fe shampoo and body wash for men ($12 reduced from $50) by Philip B LA brand - the smell is irresistible believe me... then for men again: nail brush all soft and natural hair and hard wood ($1.60 instead of original $15) and finally shaving soap with avocado oil and linden ($7.20 instead of original $45) by eshave NY i am set up for my father's September birthday presents at least 50%.
another discovery - lipgloss with the lights installed - so cool! it's a present from our sponsors - Elegant Beauty. we raffle their facial $50 X 5 vouchers from july 2013 on a monthly basis:
AVON assorted products - a generous gift from Jasna D (our AVON beauty rep) with more than 40 items including samples in the package. they will be raffled at our august event:
Chadstone Laser, Skin and Wellness Clinic and beauty salon (Julia G) generously gifted us with a bunch of beauty vouchers and products that were given away in july. there are some photos:
My recent "beauty" discoveries July 2013 (prepared together with quite maltese dog called penny NEW
one of the pharmacies at vogue shopping plaza chapel street south yarra http://vogueshoppingplaza.com.au/ (I think it's called blue goose pharmacy) is refurbishing the store so there are lots of goodies you can get for up to 80% off including designer make-up etc etc. you need to check it out. ther are also a couple of photos from a photo session with our model - Penny (Penelope Mishevich) - she is demonstrating how to use a mascara and make "sexy-eyes" and how to use lip pencil. asha and I got from them last week:
one of the pharmacies at vogue shopping plaza chapel street south yarra http://vogueshoppingplaza.com.au/ (I think it's called blue goose pharmacy) is refurbishing the store so there are lots of goodies you can get for up to 80% off including designer make-up etc etc. you need to check it out. ther are also a couple of photos from a photo session with our model - Penny (Penelope Mishevich) - she is demonstrating how to use a mascara and make "sexy-eyes" and how to use lip pencil. asha and I got from them last week:
When it comes to Beauty
Our last month winner was Jasna D. For many years before Jasna D was our Avon company Club representative and she donated lots of products for our raffles and competitions. We hope that these relationship will continue to grow.
With this month question I am making it interesting again for all and our readers will have a chance to win a beauty pack that includes lots of small gifts inside by sending me their replies.
There is a question for this month:
Calling all beauty savants, I need your help. I am compiling a list of the best Melbourne’s pamperers for you, and who better to know these treasures than you? Email me natasha.marchev@gmail.com, with all your suggestions for the best hairdressers,
beauticians,
waxers,
brow groomers,
spas and
nails salons etc
and be in with a chance to win our beauty pack.
You can email as many times as you like with your list of suggestions (please include the links if possible) - thanks heaps.
I will publish the list here with all the links and your suggestions:
Our last month winner was Jasna D. For many years before Jasna D was our Avon company Club representative and she donated lots of products for our raffles and competitions. We hope that these relationship will continue to grow.
With this month question I am making it interesting again for all and our readers will have a chance to win a beauty pack that includes lots of small gifts inside by sending me their replies.
There is a question for this month:
Calling all beauty savants, I need your help. I am compiling a list of the best Melbourne’s pamperers for you, and who better to know these treasures than you? Email me natasha.marchev@gmail.com, with all your suggestions for the best hairdressers,
beauticians,
waxers,
brow groomers,
spas and
nails salons etc
and be in with a chance to win our beauty pack.
You can email as many times as you like with your list of suggestions (please include the links if possible) - thanks heaps.
I will publish the list here with all the links and your suggestions:
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Two places I highly recommend are Lisa Melina Brow and Beauty boutique (lisamelina.com.au) and facebook link. She does the best eye brow shaping and afterwards fixes up all your make up with tips etc.
The second would be Chlo Adel boutique for hair. Both in Union Road Ascot Vale, Young vibrant business owners. Great to see such hard working women in their 20’s by Julie Dargan RN, ND, BHSc, Juice Therapist Juice Master Australia t: 03 9015 9791 See us on Facebook Page Australia http://www.facebook.com/rawandjuicyaustralia The Juice Warehouse PO Box 113 Ballan 3342 Victoria www.juicemaster.com |
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My last month discoveries beauty-wise
nothing new to be honest so I thought i'd publish some photos of the presents and giveaways Julia G (Chadstone Laser and Wellness Clinic) prepared for all our guests to be given at out July 13 event:
nothing new to be honest so I thought i'd publish some photos of the presents and giveaways Julia G (Chadstone Laser and Wellness Clinic) prepared for all our guests to be given at out July 13 event:
I got a kind permission from Julia Grinberg (Chadstone Laser and Wellness Clinic) to publish this article written by Julia. To read more on your most intimate beauty questions please follow this link.
Fraxel Laser Rejuvenation
CO2 Lasers
The CO2 lasers are ablative skin resurfacing lasers. Although there are some individuals operating the devices imported from Asia, in truth these procedures should only be performed by a trained doctor (not even a nurse).
The downtime after these procedures is about 6-8 weeks as the skin is “shaved” off, or ablated. Although results are usually great, side effects following CO2 laser resurfacing are very frequent and quiet predictable.
Side effects include redness and swelling (erythema), skin discolouration (dyspigmentation), skin eruptions and for some people eczema, skin infections and even scarring. Each procedure costs around $1200-2500, depending on provider and area of skin treated. The work is done on the epidermis (top layer of skin).
Fraxel Lasers
These are non ablative and target the dermis (mid layer of the skin) rather than epidermis. These treatments use a device to deliver a laser beam divided into thousands of microscopic treatment zones that target a fraction of the skin at a time. This is analogous to a photographic image being enhanced or altered pixel by pixel.
The results after Fraxel are very similar to Dermal Skin needling and/or IPL photorejuvenation, however the costs are a lot higher. The procedures are less expensive that CO2 though – approximately $900-$1500 per are (still very overpriced in my opinion for what you get).
Fraxel Laser Rejuvenation
CO2 Lasers
The CO2 lasers are ablative skin resurfacing lasers. Although there are some individuals operating the devices imported from Asia, in truth these procedures should only be performed by a trained doctor (not even a nurse).
The downtime after these procedures is about 6-8 weeks as the skin is “shaved” off, or ablated. Although results are usually great, side effects following CO2 laser resurfacing are very frequent and quiet predictable.
Side effects include redness and swelling (erythema), skin discolouration (dyspigmentation), skin eruptions and for some people eczema, skin infections and even scarring. Each procedure costs around $1200-2500, depending on provider and area of skin treated. The work is done on the epidermis (top layer of skin).
Fraxel Lasers
These are non ablative and target the dermis (mid layer of the skin) rather than epidermis. These treatments use a device to deliver a laser beam divided into thousands of microscopic treatment zones that target a fraction of the skin at a time. This is analogous to a photographic image being enhanced or altered pixel by pixel.
The results after Fraxel are very similar to Dermal Skin needling and/or IPL photorejuvenation, however the costs are a lot higher. The procedures are less expensive that CO2 though – approximately $900-$1500 per are (still very overpriced in my opinion for what you get).
Fraxel Treatment Classification
Other alternatives
Just for comparison
Dermal needling session or IPL photo rejuvenation or Stem Cell Infusion Clinical Facial
- Suitable for all skin damage as well as preventative
- Recovery: usually zero down time, at times skin may look flushed immediately after treatment (except for Stem Cell Infusions)
- Cost: $300 per session for dermal needling (approx 1hr including preparation time)
- Cost: $250 per session for photo rejuvenation (approx 30min)
- Cost: $250 per session for stem cell infusion clinical facial (1hr)
- Fraxel Repair
- Suitable for severely damaged skin.
- Recovery: approx 10 days.
- Single treatment cost: betw $3,000 and $5,000
- Fraxel Restore
- Suitable for moderately damaged skin (wrinkles, acne scars, melasma)
- Recovery: 2-4days
- Single treatment cost: betw $1,300 to $1,800
- Fraxel Refine
- Suitable for minor skin damage
- Recovery: minimal, and patients can usually return the work the same of following day
- Treatment Cost between $900 to $1,300
Other alternatives
Just for comparison
Dermal needling session or IPL photo rejuvenation or Stem Cell Infusion Clinical Facial
- Suitable for all skin damage as well as preventative
- Recovery: usually zero down time, at times skin may look flushed immediately after treatment (except for Stem Cell Infusions)
- Cost: $300 per session for dermal needling (approx 1hr including preparation time)
- Cost: $250 per session for photo rejuvenation (approx 30min)
- Cost: $250 per session for stem cell infusion clinical facial (1hr)
At Laser, Skin & Wellness Clinic we offer Dermal Needling, IPL photo rejuvenation as well as Stem Cell Infusion. We believe that in most less equals more and less invasive, safer treatment options do in fact provide just as good or better results. All without all the preparative trouble for the patient or the hefty price tag attached
What to do to maintain results after the procedure
Since your skin will continue to age naturally, we recommend maintaining your results. This helps slow down aging and keeps your skin younger looking, longer. Maintenance can be achieved using physician-strength rejuvenation products at home and having periodic non-ablative treatments in our clinic.
Manual (much more precise) Microdermabrasion, IPL Photofacials and other high performing anti-ageing treatments can be used individually or in combination to maintain your investment.
And of course, always wear your hat and good physical (not chemical) sunscreen at all times when outdoors.
What to do to maintain results after the procedure
Since your skin will continue to age naturally, we recommend maintaining your results. This helps slow down aging and keeps your skin younger looking, longer. Maintenance can be achieved using physician-strength rejuvenation products at home and having periodic non-ablative treatments in our clinic.
Manual (much more precise) Microdermabrasion, IPL Photofacials and other high performing anti-ageing treatments can be used individually or in combination to maintain your investment.
And of course, always wear your hat and good physical (not chemical) sunscreen at all times when outdoors.
Fueguia 1833
courtesy to website
This exciting new niche house is based in Argentina. Fueguia 1833 Patagonia Laboratorio de Perfumes was founded in 2010 by Julian Bedel and Amalia Amoedo. Bedel, the in-house perfumer, comes from a line of naturalists and has continued the tradition by identifying new native species to use in his art. One of the aspects that makes Fueguia 1833 so special is their use of ingredients native to South America. While Bedel does use classic components from the European tradition, he combines them with native species sourced in South America, harvested by local communities under sustainable projects and distilled under his supervision. In addition to unusual ingredients, Fueguia 1833 has a unique sensibility, drawing inspiration from the culture and history of Patagonia (as the territory including Argentina and Chile was dubbed by early explorers). Bedel has developed scents inspired by the music, literature and history of the region, and is especially fascinated by the voyage of Charles Darwin and the time he spent in Patagonia.
Bedel describes his scents using the concept of the atom, as opposed to the model of a pyramid. Instead of referring to top, middle and bottom notes, Bedel envisions the primary note as the nucleus and other prominent notes as electrons, orbiting around the nucleus. Although there may be as many as a hundred components in a particular formula, Bedel limits his descriptions to three major notes. The first note listed will be the central “nucleus” of the fragrance. Each fragrance comes in a recyclable glass bottle in a hand-made wooden box, crafted from wood from fallen trees.
brand webiste
courtesy of webiste
FOR THE PAST three years, only those willing to trek to Fueguia 1833's tiny retail outposts in Buenos Aires were able to get their hands on the label's signature fragrances, whose poetic inspirations range from an Argentine song lyric to the imagined smell of Darwin's cabin on his voyage to Patagonia.
Now, the Argentine perfumery is going global. Its perfumes are available at Roman perfume shop Campomarzio 70; its candles and room fragrances will arrive this month at Lucky Scent in Los Angeles and New York's Aedes de Venustas. The company plans to place its products in 25 stores across the U.S. and Europe by the end of the year.
The brand—founded in 2010 by Julian Bedel and Amalia Amoedo—was named as a homage to Fuegia Basket, a 19th-century Patagonian girl who was captured by Captain Robert Fitzroy and taken, along with three other South American Indians, to England to be "civilized" as part of a bizarre and disturbing social experiment. After two years, Basket and the other surviving captives were repatriated. They returned home on the HMS Beagle, along with a traveler named Charles Darwin.
Fueguia's nearly 60 fragrances draw on happier inspirations, too, such as South America's rich tradition of cultivating fragrant herbs, plants, woods and grasses. Though Mr. Bedel sources many of the 800 ingredients in France, he has teamed up with small-scale farms in Argentina, Peru and Paraguay to grow some of the essential elements. With a dose of brash confidence, Mr. Bedel likes to call Fueguia the first South American luxury brand.
The company organizes its products into nature- and literature-inspired collections, such as the plant-based Linneo (named after Carl Linnaeus, the father of taxonomy) or South American cedar-heavy Borges, named after surrealist Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges.
The fragrances are technically unisex, but scents such as the sweet myrrh-laced Homero skew male, while the magnolia-based Malena and jasmine-accented Amalia are more feminine. The goods come wrapped in historic maps of Patagonia and tucked into handmade boxes crafted from recycled locally sourced wood.
FOR THE PAST three years, only those willing to trek to Fueguia 1833's tiny retail outposts in Buenos Aires were able to get their hands on the label's signature fragrances, whose poetic inspirations range from an Argentine song lyric to the imagined smell of Darwin's cabin on his voyage to Patagonia.
Now, the Argentine perfumery is going global. Its perfumes are available at Roman perfume shop Campomarzio 70; its candles and room fragrances will arrive this month at Lucky Scent in Los Angeles and New York's Aedes de Venustas. The company plans to place its products in 25 stores across the U.S. and Europe by the end of the year.
The brand—founded in 2010 by Julian Bedel and Amalia Amoedo—was named as a homage to Fuegia Basket, a 19th-century Patagonian girl who was captured by Captain Robert Fitzroy and taken, along with three other South American Indians, to England to be "civilized" as part of a bizarre and disturbing social experiment. After two years, Basket and the other surviving captives were repatriated. They returned home on the HMS Beagle, along with a traveler named Charles Darwin.
Fueguia's nearly 60 fragrances draw on happier inspirations, too, such as South America's rich tradition of cultivating fragrant herbs, plants, woods and grasses. Though Mr. Bedel sources many of the 800 ingredients in France, he has teamed up with small-scale farms in Argentina, Peru and Paraguay to grow some of the essential elements. With a dose of brash confidence, Mr. Bedel likes to call Fueguia the first South American luxury brand.
The company organizes its products into nature- and literature-inspired collections, such as the plant-based Linneo (named after Carl Linnaeus, the father of taxonomy) or South American cedar-heavy Borges, named after surrealist Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges.
The fragrances are technically unisex, but scents such as the sweet myrrh-laced Homero skew male, while the magnolia-based Malena and jasmine-accented Amalia are more feminine. The goods come wrapped in historic maps of Patagonia and tucked into handmade boxes crafted from recycled locally sourced wood.
courtesy of websiteCharles Thays a French botanist and landscape architect traveled to Argentina in the 1880s to study its rich flora, and stayed on to design many of its parks, namely, Plaza San Martin, and Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays, both in Buenos Aires.
Earlier this week perfume lovers of all kinds gathered at Aedes de Venustas boutique to welcome Argentinian perfumer Julian Bedel and his perfume collection Fueguia 1833 into the west village boutique. Karl Bradl, co-founder of Aedes (who over the years has guided me toward many a fragrance) confided that he was lured by Fueguia’s entire story, its look, but ultimately it is the fragrances that made the NYC launch a reality. It is an ambitious collection with over 50 fragrances. Fueguia’s story comes alive, through an intricately weaved narrative that blends a specific time in history, the personal, and raw materials that are unique and indigenous to South America. Each bottle comes in its very own wooden box that is handcrafted and made from fallen trees in the Valdivian forest.
Our name is a tribute to the meeting between Charles Darwin, Robert Fitz Roy and Fueguia Basket, a native from Tierra del Fuego who was abducted by Fitz Roy and returned three years later to Patagonia, during the journey which would give birth to Darwin’s Origin of Species…. Fueguia 1833 is homage to my ancestors who were naturalists and writers. Louis Bedel, Henry D’Orbigny, Maurice Bedel, René Bedel and Filiberto Oliveira de Cé-zar, roamed the world, or their own universe, and left the imprint of their singular, inquisitive minds. -Julian Bedel and Ama Amoedo Founders
Standing before the large display of fragrances, my friend asked me, how should I begin? And this question made me a bit tense, because smelling fragrances has always been instinctual, and if someone along the way has taught me a method, I clearly forgot all about it in that moment. However I do know that oddly enough before I smell perfumes I look at them and notice the color of their juice and then proceed from light to dark, the darker the color usually equals complexity. Fueguia has organized the collection into seven categories based on the perfumers inspiration, for example, people, places, writers, are a just a few. But in the moment, at Aedes I let the juice color and my gut direct me, and I was specifically drawn to the most incredible green hue.
I reached out and took THAYS in my hand. Thays is an ode to the Mate leaf Julian told me, I’m always happy to smell fragrances with a perfumer. Mate is the national drink of Argentina, a tea that is similar to green tea, but has a more intense aroma. Julian stood with my friend and us three smelled Thays together. Julian was quiet at first and then mentioned cis-3-Hexen-1-ol, as he exhaled. This note smells like fresh-cut green grass, which I didn’t smell immediately. The green in the fragrance comes across as a green-aldehydic note, less powdery more fizzy and seems to stay constant throughout the composition. Thays starts out crisp with a citrus top that leads to a green earthy bitterness. Osmanthus enters and seems to cut through the green bitterness adding a creamy floralcy. The floralcy is not in full bloom though, which makes this fragrance intriguing. Thays is a fragrance that was born of lure and spans centuries from Darwin to Fueguia Basket, from Charles Thays to Argentina, from Julian Bedel to his familial ties, from Aedes to my skin.
My introduction to Fueguia 1833 got me thinking about different ways to approach a fragrance collection. My conclusion: I really don’t think there is one sure way to do it, and this made me think of dishwashing, yes dishwashing. My idealistic approach to washing dishes has always been glass first, dishes, pots and pans, and silverware last. However there is another side of dishwashing that maybe you have experienced. It is a bewitching time that almost borders on loneliness, it is that quiet time, when the water is running and thoughts rush in and out, and if you are lucky everything slows down and thoughts gently settle down leading to perhaps remembering a forgotten task on a to-do list, or even better an epiphany.
Thays brought the latter.
Earlier this week perfume lovers of all kinds gathered at Aedes de Venustas boutique to welcome Argentinian perfumer Julian Bedel and his perfume collection Fueguia 1833 into the west village boutique. Karl Bradl, co-founder of Aedes (who over the years has guided me toward many a fragrance) confided that he was lured by Fueguia’s entire story, its look, but ultimately it is the fragrances that made the NYC launch a reality. It is an ambitious collection with over 50 fragrances. Fueguia’s story comes alive, through an intricately weaved narrative that blends a specific time in history, the personal, and raw materials that are unique and indigenous to South America. Each bottle comes in its very own wooden box that is handcrafted and made from fallen trees in the Valdivian forest.
Our name is a tribute to the meeting between Charles Darwin, Robert Fitz Roy and Fueguia Basket, a native from Tierra del Fuego who was abducted by Fitz Roy and returned three years later to Patagonia, during the journey which would give birth to Darwin’s Origin of Species…. Fueguia 1833 is homage to my ancestors who were naturalists and writers. Louis Bedel, Henry D’Orbigny, Maurice Bedel, René Bedel and Filiberto Oliveira de Cé-zar, roamed the world, or their own universe, and left the imprint of their singular, inquisitive minds. -Julian Bedel and Ama Amoedo Founders
Standing before the large display of fragrances, my friend asked me, how should I begin? And this question made me a bit tense, because smelling fragrances has always been instinctual, and if someone along the way has taught me a method, I clearly forgot all about it in that moment. However I do know that oddly enough before I smell perfumes I look at them and notice the color of their juice and then proceed from light to dark, the darker the color usually equals complexity. Fueguia has organized the collection into seven categories based on the perfumers inspiration, for example, people, places, writers, are a just a few. But in the moment, at Aedes I let the juice color and my gut direct me, and I was specifically drawn to the most incredible green hue.
I reached out and took THAYS in my hand. Thays is an ode to the Mate leaf Julian told me, I’m always happy to smell fragrances with a perfumer. Mate is the national drink of Argentina, a tea that is similar to green tea, but has a more intense aroma. Julian stood with my friend and us three smelled Thays together. Julian was quiet at first and then mentioned cis-3-Hexen-1-ol, as he exhaled. This note smells like fresh-cut green grass, which I didn’t smell immediately. The green in the fragrance comes across as a green-aldehydic note, less powdery more fizzy and seems to stay constant throughout the composition. Thays starts out crisp with a citrus top that leads to a green earthy bitterness. Osmanthus enters and seems to cut through the green bitterness adding a creamy floralcy. The floralcy is not in full bloom though, which makes this fragrance intriguing. Thays is a fragrance that was born of lure and spans centuries from Darwin to Fueguia Basket, from Charles Thays to Argentina, from Julian Bedel to his familial ties, from Aedes to my skin.
My introduction to Fueguia 1833 got me thinking about different ways to approach a fragrance collection. My conclusion: I really don’t think there is one sure way to do it, and this made me think of dishwashing, yes dishwashing. My idealistic approach to washing dishes has always been glass first, dishes, pots and pans, and silverware last. However there is another side of dishwashing that maybe you have experienced. It is a bewitching time that almost borders on loneliness, it is that quiet time, when the water is running and thoughts rush in and out, and if you are lucky everything slows down and thoughts gently settle down leading to perhaps remembering a forgotten task on a to-do list, or even better an epiphany.
Thays brought the latter.
courtesy of website
1. The Jorge Luis Borges collection is inspired by the work of the writer. “We journey across the imagery of Borges, unmasking the scents behind his works.”
It includes the following fragrances: Alguien Sueña , Biblioteca de Babel, El Mono de la Tinta, El Otro Tigre, Elogio de la Sombra, Metáfora, Pulpería and Sur.
2. The Destinos fragrances are inspired by interesting locations and landscapes. “Our interpretation of the mesmerizing enchantment produced by the intricate n ative landscapes.”
Those fragrances are: Amber de los Andes, Castillos, Colonia del Sacramento, Entre Ríos, Iberá, Lago del Desierto, Misiones, Pampa Húmeda, Sudestada, Zonda, Beagle and El Dorado.
3. The Personajes collection is dedicated to characters who “transformed their lives in a memorable voyage”.
The fragrances include: Bonpland, Cándido López, Darwin, Fitz Roy, Humboldt, Juan Manuel, La Cautiva, Magallanes, Tagore and Thays.
4. Fabula Fauna is inspired by animals as “characters of stories evoking hidden feelings”
It includes: Ballena de la Pampa, Corvina Negra, Hornero, Huemul, Malabrigo and Yaguareté.
5. Linneo is Carl Linnaeus-inspired. He is the father of taxonomy. "In this collection we honor a poet who became a naturalist."
The fragrances are: Agua Magnoliana, Copal Negro, Guayacán, Fueguier, Jacarandá, Mbucuruyá, Quebracho, Caoba and Gálbano.
6. The Amalia collection is dedicated to the beauty of women. "Formulas especially selected by the house perfumer to express the beauty of women."
The fragrances of the collection are: Amalia Gourmand, Amalia Verano, Amalia Otoño, Amalia Invierno i Amalia Primavera.
7. Armonías represents music. "Harmony is the balance of the proportions between the different parts of a whole, and its result always connotes beauty. Perfumes created from unique chords."
The fragrances are named: Fruta Amarga, Dos Gardenias, Malena and Naranjo en Flor.
The compositions are presented with three main accords.
The perfumes are hand packed in recyclable glass bottles and wooden suitcases, and the labels are hand signed. The characteristic wooden boxes are completely handmade by a carpentry school in Patagonia using wood from fallen trees in the Patagonian “Valdiviano” forest.
The species of aromas used to make the boxes that are native to Patagonia are:Nothofagus obliqua (Pellin Oak), Nothofagus nervosa (Evergreen Beech),Nothofaguspumilio (Lenga), Nothofagus dombeyi (Coihue), Lomatia hirsuta (Radal) andAustrocedrus Chilensis (Mountain Cypress).
1. The Jorge Luis Borges collection is inspired by the work of the writer. “We journey across the imagery of Borges, unmasking the scents behind his works.”
It includes the following fragrances: Alguien Sueña , Biblioteca de Babel, El Mono de la Tinta, El Otro Tigre, Elogio de la Sombra, Metáfora, Pulpería and Sur.
2. The Destinos fragrances are inspired by interesting locations and landscapes. “Our interpretation of the mesmerizing enchantment produced by the intricate n ative landscapes.”
Those fragrances are: Amber de los Andes, Castillos, Colonia del Sacramento, Entre Ríos, Iberá, Lago del Desierto, Misiones, Pampa Húmeda, Sudestada, Zonda, Beagle and El Dorado.
3. The Personajes collection is dedicated to characters who “transformed their lives in a memorable voyage”.
The fragrances include: Bonpland, Cándido López, Darwin, Fitz Roy, Humboldt, Juan Manuel, La Cautiva, Magallanes, Tagore and Thays.
4. Fabula Fauna is inspired by animals as “characters of stories evoking hidden feelings”
It includes: Ballena de la Pampa, Corvina Negra, Hornero, Huemul, Malabrigo and Yaguareté.
5. Linneo is Carl Linnaeus-inspired. He is the father of taxonomy. "In this collection we honor a poet who became a naturalist."
The fragrances are: Agua Magnoliana, Copal Negro, Guayacán, Fueguier, Jacarandá, Mbucuruyá, Quebracho, Caoba and Gálbano.
6. The Amalia collection is dedicated to the beauty of women. "Formulas especially selected by the house perfumer to express the beauty of women."
The fragrances of the collection are: Amalia Gourmand, Amalia Verano, Amalia Otoño, Amalia Invierno i Amalia Primavera.
7. Armonías represents music. "Harmony is the balance of the proportions between the different parts of a whole, and its result always connotes beauty. Perfumes created from unique chords."
The fragrances are named: Fruta Amarga, Dos Gardenias, Malena and Naranjo en Flor.
The compositions are presented with three main accords.
The perfumes are hand packed in recyclable glass bottles and wooden suitcases, and the labels are hand signed. The characteristic wooden boxes are completely handmade by a carpentry school in Patagonia using wood from fallen trees in the Patagonian “Valdiviano” forest.
The species of aromas used to make the boxes that are native to Patagonia are:Nothofagus obliqua (Pellin Oak), Nothofagus nervosa (Evergreen Beech),Nothofaguspumilio (Lenga), Nothofagus dombeyi (Coihue), Lomatia hirsuta (Radal) andAustrocedrus Chilensis (Mountain Cypress).
Julian Bedel: Antipode and Perfumer of Fueguia 1833 Patagonia
By: Serguey Borisov
website
"... and it will cross the wilderness of distance
and sniff out in the woven labyrinth
of smells the smell peculiar to morning
and the scent on the air of deer, delectable."
--Jorge Luis Borges, El Otro Tigre
Argentinian perfumer Julian Bedel flew to Italy for the first European launch of his Fueguia 1833 Patagonia perfumes in Campomarzio70, Rome. Due to kindest help of Valentino and Maria di Liello I had a lucky chance to spend half an hour with him, to better understand his ideas embodied in this prolific and fruitful perfume house from the other side of Earth. Tom Rebl showroom hosted us and the first dozens of Fueguia 1833 Patagonia perfumes.
Julian Bedel
Serguey Borisov: Why did you choose the name of "Fueguia?" There are a lot of world-famous Argentinians—Borges, Evita, Messi and Maradona—who are much more popular. The story of the girl taken from Tierra del Fuego to London and after some years brought back is almost unknown!
Julian Bedel: Our name—Fueguia 1833 Patagonia—is a tribute to the meeting between Charles Darwin, Robert Fitz Roy and Fueguia Basket, a native girl from Tierra del Fuego who was abducted by Fitz Roy and returned three years later to Patagonia, during the journey which then gave birth to Darwin's Origin of Species.
Patagonia represents our origin, our starting point in a virgin territory where humans are very scarce, dominated by Nature. It's the environment where we search for native species, harvested by local communities under sustainable projects, to distill unconventional essences from them. And I like that way to help local communities by buying their sustainable crops much more than big money from a popular perfume project. We're not a popular project, not at all, we are small brand with a lot of perfumes.
We are small but we are known amongst the right people—we performed some special projects for Park Hyatt, Four Seasons and Hub Porteno Hotels.
You know, money is not everything. Alexander von Humboldt was such a passionate scientist—he identified three hundred species of verbena! And he did that not for the money, but out of curiosity! There were real people who were eager to uncover the diversity of South America, and my ancestors were amongst them too.
And Fueguia 1833 is an homage to all naturalists and writers. They roamed the world, or their own universe, and left the imprint of their singular, inquisitive minds. Fueguia 1833 is born from the association between Europe and South America that originated centuries ago. Continuing our tradition, we identify native species to conceive and create, in Buenos Aires, fragrances which reflect the exotic diversity of South American natural treasures, its flora and fauna. Fueguia is a proposition for all wandering spirits.
The Fabula Fauna Collection consists of six perfumes. There are: musk and ambergris perfume Ballena de la Pampa (Musk, Ambergris, Gramineae), imagining itself as a spermwhale resting in herbs of pampa; flowery animalic Corvina Negra (Violet, Seaweed, Sodium); the Vetiver of bird's nest Hornero (Vetiver, Opopanax, Tangerine); the musky fur of South-Andian deer Huemul (Muscone, Macrocyclic musk, Jasmine); the furry vicuna musk Malabrigo (Palo Santo, Copaiba, Cashmerane); and spicy Yaguarete (Saffron, Massoia, Ginger), waiting for its next prey.
Serguey Borisov: So, how did you begin? What did you do before you became a perfumer?
Julian Bedel: That's boring, and I can't tell you about it. I believe that the main aspects of Fueguia are our research of plants and our own manufacturing. Yes, my own story is not as important as the product itself and how we create it every day. Well, I'm an artist and my father is an artist also. I'm musician myself, I play guitar and I also build guitars. I believe that making a perfumes is also a workshop—it's a different palette, but it's the same approach…
Serguey Borisov: So for you perfumery is more like a workshop, not a long academic lecture?
Julian Bedel: Completely, for me it's scientific AND empirical; my perfume experience is totally empirical, you know—every natural oil could consist of hundreds of molecules. Each drop of natural oil has its own evolution, those molecules start evaporating and the smell picture of naturals is evolving constantly. And you have to smell its development to understand it. That's a lot of information coming, it's far more complex than two molecules of, say, geraniol and methyldihydrojasmonate mixed. Two molecules together are simpler than two natural oils mixed.
Serguey Borisov: I've read a Celine Ellena metaphor about it. She said that when you smell one molecule, it's like one person speaking. When you smell one natural, it's like being in a crowded room of people speaking permanently.
Julian Bedel: (laughing) Yes, it's true. So in our production unit, when we make a rectification, sometimes we just take out the voice of the person who does not input much in the conversation.
Serguey Borisov: Do you have your own laboratory to produce all your own natural oils?
Julian Bedel: No, we have different laboratories. In production we use the facilities of the universities of Patagonia and Inca, we rent their facilities with the crops. Not that we have to distillate 10,000 liters.
Serguey Borisov: So Argentinian universities have distillation facilities available for rent?
Julian Bedel: Yes, and you could distill whatever you want as you rent it. You can drive a truck of Vetiver roots to them and say “Hey, do you have some free time as I want Vetiver distillation?” and they could answer “Come back in a half an hour—I'll just finish my sandwich and we'll be ready.” Yes, it's pretty cool. Each university has to generate their own private services to have some extra income.
Serguey Borisov: I see. What are the natural oils of Argentina that you are especially proud of?
Julian Bedel: Basically, it's South American plants. I mean all the countries: Paraguay, Peru, Brasil, Argentina, Chile, Uruguay—one cannot say that plants are from one side of a border or another. So let`s talk about South American native plants.
The Linneo Collection consists of nine perfumes: Agua Magnoliana (Amazon Magnolia, Jasmine, Sandalwood), Fueguier (Fig, Musk, Petitgrain), Jacaranda (Bergamot, Cedarmoss, Patchouli), Mbucuruya (Maracuja, Citrus, Milk); Quebracho (Incense, Cade, Bergamot); Caoba (Patchouli, Cocoa, Ambergris); Galbano (Galbanum, Musk, Fleurdorange); Santalum (Sandalwood, Amyris, Musk); Xocoatl (Vanilla, Coconut, Rum).
Serguey Borisov: OK, let's talk about South American native plants.
Julian Bedel: There are a lot of them, that are permanent members of the perfumer's palette: Tuberose (Polianthes tuberosa), Vanilla (Vanilla planifolia), Tonka beans (Dipterix odorata), Palo Santo (Bursera graeveolens), Guaiac wood (Bulnesia sarmientoi), and Magnolia is also an American native…
Paramela, Tobacco Negro, Mate, Acacia Caven, Copaiba, Cabreuva, a lot of them! …and we have so many different subvarieties of these species—you cannot find and distill the same in India or other countries. Though we also produce Lemon and Bergamot that grows here and it's super important for our perfume industry. My favourites are the amazing exotic woods from Amazonia and Patagonia that we can distill here—there are woods that are part of industry palette like copaiba balsamifera, guaiac wood, palo santo…
Serguey Borisov: Have you used all those native woods in your perfumes?
Julian Bedel: Yes, of course! Malabrigo from the Fabula Fauna collection—it's Palo Santo with Copaiba and Cashmeran, I want to create a dry animalic scent of the warm and soft neck of the vicuna.
Also Candido Lopez, it's the fragrance based on Guaiac wood and Tobacco (Also I should bring to your attention that we use for distillation the leftovers from wood milling).
By the way, Candido Lopez was a famous Argentinian painter who was also a soldier and many of his drawings and pictures were devoted to the battles of the Paraguayan war (1864-1870).
All the military actions took place at the north of Argentina and in Paraguay, where the guaiac tree grows—so one could see guaiac trees in almost every Lopez picture.
That`s why I based Candido Lopez on that lactonic and phenolic guaiac wood note. You could also smell the smokey rose facet of guaiac, which smells like a Barbequed Rose with wood smoke.
Serguey Borisov: OK, so most of the naturals have been grown and made in South America. What about the synthetic molecules—do they come from Argentina also?
Julian Bedel: No, the synthetics come from Switzerland. We work a lot with Firmenich, and we have a very nice relationship with Givaudan. But Firmenich is especially good in musk molecules, you know that Muscone was isolated there by Firmenich chemist Ruzicka… and all the new musks—Muscenone, laevo-Muscenone, Habanolide, Romanolide, and most ambergris notes such as Ambrox, Cetalox, etc… While I enjoy Velvione and Cosmone musks from Givaudan also. I;m very interested in the Paradisone molecule of Firmenich, as I smelled it and want to make the perfume of Paradise… so I'm not captured by naturals only.
Serguey Borisov: When I looked through your catalog, the perfumes are always described by three notes only.
Julian Bedel: Well, I try to make a formula as simple as possible, but sometimes it goes far more than a hundred components in a formula. But I have to simplify things down in order to sell 50 perfumes in our boutique. People needs to remember the main things—one, two, three.
Serguey Borisov: True! Otherwise it's impossible for the sales assistants to recall them!
Julian Bedel: And for the customers also! You know, when a customer says “I want a floral like magnolia” or “I want a musk”—it's a very good customer! (laughs) And it was very difficult to find those three notes; in fact, we don`t make pyramids as it does not make sense with evaporating and everything. In the description it makes more sense for me when we make a nucleus and two orbits around it.
Serguey Borisov: Where did you get this atom metaphor from? When I;ve seen your brand and smelled your perfumes, it feels like you invented the bicycle once again! It's like the evolution of the perfume species on different continents!
Julian Bedel: I believe that's because I did not come from the world of perfumery, so I have a fresh and innocent approach to everything. Anyway, pyramids were intended for sales assistants and for customers—but atoms should be easier to remember. We found the fresh way to present all fifty perfumes in our small boutique.
We do not use blotters and we do not spray perfumes in the air! We just put glass flasks onto the sprayers—so the smells do not mix with each other, the boutique does not smell with all our perfumes and customers get a realistic smell from the flasks (as I have found, paper does not give a realistic smell of a perfume on skin, it does not emit some molecules good enough). And that flask really works—it`s not just a funny decoration!
Serguey Borisov: And Jean Patou also used a similar technique—glass spheres called Monclins. So great minds think alike and evolution does work everywhere. Now, please, tell me—why did you make so many perfumes? FIFTY? Isn't it too many?
Julian Bedel: Well, soon there will be sixty of them… That's enough for those who like flowery or woody perfumes. There are not so many if you like musk notes or animalic notes. Just two perfumes, that's it. El Otro Tigre—it's more civet-oriented, of course, this is not a bestseller! (laughs) Also here you could smell the tuberose note.
Serguey Borisov: I smell something like paper, or Iris-like…
Julian Bedel: Yes, it's Ambrette seeds and Cedarwood, they smell like that. And a lot of Musk here too. Paper has a dry sexy smell that borders with the Cedarwood smell, but without the aromatics accents. That feeling of dryness, as in Cashmeran without woody accents, in very low quantities it smells very sexy. The idea here was a sexy animalic, with herbal and flower notes. El Otro Tigre is the perfume from the Jorge Luis Borges collection. It includes eight perfumes: fruity Alguien Siena(Patchouli, Ylang-Ylang, Cassis), woody-spicy smell of ink and books Biblioteca de Babel (Cinnamon, Cabreuva, Cedar), woody El Mono de la Tinta (Cinnamon, Sandalwood, Copaiba), animalic musky El Otro Tigre (Tuberose, Ambrette, Muscone), woody floral Elogio de la Sombra (Bergamot, Mimosa, Iris), spicy flowery Metafora (Ginger, Jasmine, Pink Pepper), spicy gin scent Pulperia (Elemi, Pepper, Cedarwood), and floral citrus perfume Sur (Davana, Jasmine, Orange).
Serguey Borisov: By the way, have you got the copyright from the Borges copyright-holders?
Julian Bedel: No. In intellectual property you have some amount of freedom to use some quotes. If you are a journalist, you can use the quotes in your own paragraph—it's allowed. The same in music: you can use a short phrase from the musical piece of other composer.
And I think that I can use the names of Borges essays as the source of inspiration for my perfumes that are my poems built from molecules instead of words.
Jorge Luis Borges is world-famous writer with a fantastic imagination and our collection of perfumes is devoted to him, as I tried to express his ideas in perfumes.
Serguey Borisov: And yet again, don't you think that 60 perfumes are too many?
Julian Bedel: I believe that this big collection allows to people to discover that they like florals or they like woods. At the end of the day, all the rest of the 60 fragrances do not matter any longer, it does matter if you find the one fragrance that you like and you do enjoy. Also for me creating all those fragrances is play, my laboratory is my playground. I have no cost limitations in my products, I play with everything no matter how much does it costs—I have 800 ingredients for playing, and if the smell is terrific, I'd better make a small batch of it, than make a cheaper substitution. And it's going to be like that. Why not? Why not make a 200 perfumes? In my case—when we have our own manufacturing unit—we are not limited by the number of bottles and stoppers, or liters of concentrate, or any other factor. I do personal perfumes as well—and that's very limited production.
As a painter and as a musician I believe in hard work; art work should be constant and continuous. To create an artwork, a painting that makes perfect sense about his idea, the artist should leave aside a lot of ready artworks that are almost perfect. The same as in perfumery—to make one perfume perfect, you need to leave many others aside. But I believe in the constant creative process—when you are creating something new every day and every week, you keep creating and creating and creating something, being inspired by new ideas. And I spend 10-12 hours in my laboratory every day so I need to create something. Otherwise it is something that just reminds me of masturbating… New things should come out. We have so much heritage in South America—that's flora and fauna, that's unique places on planet Earth, that's our people and our artists.
Serguey Borisov
Serguey Borisov has been known in the Internet world of perfume under the nickname moon_fish for more than 10 years. Now he writes about perfumes for GQ.ru and Vogue.ru, and contributes on the subject for glossy magazines.
By: Serguey Borisov
website
"... and it will cross the wilderness of distance
and sniff out in the woven labyrinth
of smells the smell peculiar to morning
and the scent on the air of deer, delectable."
--Jorge Luis Borges, El Otro Tigre
Argentinian perfumer Julian Bedel flew to Italy for the first European launch of his Fueguia 1833 Patagonia perfumes in Campomarzio70, Rome. Due to kindest help of Valentino and Maria di Liello I had a lucky chance to spend half an hour with him, to better understand his ideas embodied in this prolific and fruitful perfume house from the other side of Earth. Tom Rebl showroom hosted us and the first dozens of Fueguia 1833 Patagonia perfumes.
Julian Bedel
Serguey Borisov: Why did you choose the name of "Fueguia?" There are a lot of world-famous Argentinians—Borges, Evita, Messi and Maradona—who are much more popular. The story of the girl taken from Tierra del Fuego to London and after some years brought back is almost unknown!
Julian Bedel: Our name—Fueguia 1833 Patagonia—is a tribute to the meeting between Charles Darwin, Robert Fitz Roy and Fueguia Basket, a native girl from Tierra del Fuego who was abducted by Fitz Roy and returned three years later to Patagonia, during the journey which then gave birth to Darwin's Origin of Species.
Patagonia represents our origin, our starting point in a virgin territory where humans are very scarce, dominated by Nature. It's the environment where we search for native species, harvested by local communities under sustainable projects, to distill unconventional essences from them. And I like that way to help local communities by buying their sustainable crops much more than big money from a popular perfume project. We're not a popular project, not at all, we are small brand with a lot of perfumes.
We are small but we are known amongst the right people—we performed some special projects for Park Hyatt, Four Seasons and Hub Porteno Hotels.
You know, money is not everything. Alexander von Humboldt was such a passionate scientist—he identified three hundred species of verbena! And he did that not for the money, but out of curiosity! There were real people who were eager to uncover the diversity of South America, and my ancestors were amongst them too.
And Fueguia 1833 is an homage to all naturalists and writers. They roamed the world, or their own universe, and left the imprint of their singular, inquisitive minds. Fueguia 1833 is born from the association between Europe and South America that originated centuries ago. Continuing our tradition, we identify native species to conceive and create, in Buenos Aires, fragrances which reflect the exotic diversity of South American natural treasures, its flora and fauna. Fueguia is a proposition for all wandering spirits.
The Fabula Fauna Collection consists of six perfumes. There are: musk and ambergris perfume Ballena de la Pampa (Musk, Ambergris, Gramineae), imagining itself as a spermwhale resting in herbs of pampa; flowery animalic Corvina Negra (Violet, Seaweed, Sodium); the Vetiver of bird's nest Hornero (Vetiver, Opopanax, Tangerine); the musky fur of South-Andian deer Huemul (Muscone, Macrocyclic musk, Jasmine); the furry vicuna musk Malabrigo (Palo Santo, Copaiba, Cashmerane); and spicy Yaguarete (Saffron, Massoia, Ginger), waiting for its next prey.
Serguey Borisov: So, how did you begin? What did you do before you became a perfumer?
Julian Bedel: That's boring, and I can't tell you about it. I believe that the main aspects of Fueguia are our research of plants and our own manufacturing. Yes, my own story is not as important as the product itself and how we create it every day. Well, I'm an artist and my father is an artist also. I'm musician myself, I play guitar and I also build guitars. I believe that making a perfumes is also a workshop—it's a different palette, but it's the same approach…
Serguey Borisov: So for you perfumery is more like a workshop, not a long academic lecture?
Julian Bedel: Completely, for me it's scientific AND empirical; my perfume experience is totally empirical, you know—every natural oil could consist of hundreds of molecules. Each drop of natural oil has its own evolution, those molecules start evaporating and the smell picture of naturals is evolving constantly. And you have to smell its development to understand it. That's a lot of information coming, it's far more complex than two molecules of, say, geraniol and methyldihydrojasmonate mixed. Two molecules together are simpler than two natural oils mixed.
Serguey Borisov: I've read a Celine Ellena metaphor about it. She said that when you smell one molecule, it's like one person speaking. When you smell one natural, it's like being in a crowded room of people speaking permanently.
Julian Bedel: (laughing) Yes, it's true. So in our production unit, when we make a rectification, sometimes we just take out the voice of the person who does not input much in the conversation.
Serguey Borisov: Do you have your own laboratory to produce all your own natural oils?
Julian Bedel: No, we have different laboratories. In production we use the facilities of the universities of Patagonia and Inca, we rent their facilities with the crops. Not that we have to distillate 10,000 liters.
Serguey Borisov: So Argentinian universities have distillation facilities available for rent?
Julian Bedel: Yes, and you could distill whatever you want as you rent it. You can drive a truck of Vetiver roots to them and say “Hey, do you have some free time as I want Vetiver distillation?” and they could answer “Come back in a half an hour—I'll just finish my sandwich and we'll be ready.” Yes, it's pretty cool. Each university has to generate their own private services to have some extra income.
Serguey Borisov: I see. What are the natural oils of Argentina that you are especially proud of?
Julian Bedel: Basically, it's South American plants. I mean all the countries: Paraguay, Peru, Brasil, Argentina, Chile, Uruguay—one cannot say that plants are from one side of a border or another. So let`s talk about South American native plants.
The Linneo Collection consists of nine perfumes: Agua Magnoliana (Amazon Magnolia, Jasmine, Sandalwood), Fueguier (Fig, Musk, Petitgrain), Jacaranda (Bergamot, Cedarmoss, Patchouli), Mbucuruya (Maracuja, Citrus, Milk); Quebracho (Incense, Cade, Bergamot); Caoba (Patchouli, Cocoa, Ambergris); Galbano (Galbanum, Musk, Fleurdorange); Santalum (Sandalwood, Amyris, Musk); Xocoatl (Vanilla, Coconut, Rum).
Serguey Borisov: OK, let's talk about South American native plants.
Julian Bedel: There are a lot of them, that are permanent members of the perfumer's palette: Tuberose (Polianthes tuberosa), Vanilla (Vanilla planifolia), Tonka beans (Dipterix odorata), Palo Santo (Bursera graeveolens), Guaiac wood (Bulnesia sarmientoi), and Magnolia is also an American native…
Paramela, Tobacco Negro, Mate, Acacia Caven, Copaiba, Cabreuva, a lot of them! …and we have so many different subvarieties of these species—you cannot find and distill the same in India or other countries. Though we also produce Lemon and Bergamot that grows here and it's super important for our perfume industry. My favourites are the amazing exotic woods from Amazonia and Patagonia that we can distill here—there are woods that are part of industry palette like copaiba balsamifera, guaiac wood, palo santo…
Serguey Borisov: Have you used all those native woods in your perfumes?
Julian Bedel: Yes, of course! Malabrigo from the Fabula Fauna collection—it's Palo Santo with Copaiba and Cashmeran, I want to create a dry animalic scent of the warm and soft neck of the vicuna.
Also Candido Lopez, it's the fragrance based on Guaiac wood and Tobacco (Also I should bring to your attention that we use for distillation the leftovers from wood milling).
By the way, Candido Lopez was a famous Argentinian painter who was also a soldier and many of his drawings and pictures were devoted to the battles of the Paraguayan war (1864-1870).
All the military actions took place at the north of Argentina and in Paraguay, where the guaiac tree grows—so one could see guaiac trees in almost every Lopez picture.
That`s why I based Candido Lopez on that lactonic and phenolic guaiac wood note. You could also smell the smokey rose facet of guaiac, which smells like a Barbequed Rose with wood smoke.
Serguey Borisov: OK, so most of the naturals have been grown and made in South America. What about the synthetic molecules—do they come from Argentina also?
Julian Bedel: No, the synthetics come from Switzerland. We work a lot with Firmenich, and we have a very nice relationship with Givaudan. But Firmenich is especially good in musk molecules, you know that Muscone was isolated there by Firmenich chemist Ruzicka… and all the new musks—Muscenone, laevo-Muscenone, Habanolide, Romanolide, and most ambergris notes such as Ambrox, Cetalox, etc… While I enjoy Velvione and Cosmone musks from Givaudan also. I;m very interested in the Paradisone molecule of Firmenich, as I smelled it and want to make the perfume of Paradise… so I'm not captured by naturals only.
Serguey Borisov: When I looked through your catalog, the perfumes are always described by three notes only.
Julian Bedel: Well, I try to make a formula as simple as possible, but sometimes it goes far more than a hundred components in a formula. But I have to simplify things down in order to sell 50 perfumes in our boutique. People needs to remember the main things—one, two, three.
Serguey Borisov: True! Otherwise it's impossible for the sales assistants to recall them!
Julian Bedel: And for the customers also! You know, when a customer says “I want a floral like magnolia” or “I want a musk”—it's a very good customer! (laughs) And it was very difficult to find those three notes; in fact, we don`t make pyramids as it does not make sense with evaporating and everything. In the description it makes more sense for me when we make a nucleus and two orbits around it.
Serguey Borisov: Where did you get this atom metaphor from? When I;ve seen your brand and smelled your perfumes, it feels like you invented the bicycle once again! It's like the evolution of the perfume species on different continents!
Julian Bedel: I believe that's because I did not come from the world of perfumery, so I have a fresh and innocent approach to everything. Anyway, pyramids were intended for sales assistants and for customers—but atoms should be easier to remember. We found the fresh way to present all fifty perfumes in our small boutique.
We do not use blotters and we do not spray perfumes in the air! We just put glass flasks onto the sprayers—so the smells do not mix with each other, the boutique does not smell with all our perfumes and customers get a realistic smell from the flasks (as I have found, paper does not give a realistic smell of a perfume on skin, it does not emit some molecules good enough). And that flask really works—it`s not just a funny decoration!
Serguey Borisov: And Jean Patou also used a similar technique—glass spheres called Monclins. So great minds think alike and evolution does work everywhere. Now, please, tell me—why did you make so many perfumes? FIFTY? Isn't it too many?
Julian Bedel: Well, soon there will be sixty of them… That's enough for those who like flowery or woody perfumes. There are not so many if you like musk notes or animalic notes. Just two perfumes, that's it. El Otro Tigre—it's more civet-oriented, of course, this is not a bestseller! (laughs) Also here you could smell the tuberose note.
Serguey Borisov: I smell something like paper, or Iris-like…
Julian Bedel: Yes, it's Ambrette seeds and Cedarwood, they smell like that. And a lot of Musk here too. Paper has a dry sexy smell that borders with the Cedarwood smell, but without the aromatics accents. That feeling of dryness, as in Cashmeran without woody accents, in very low quantities it smells very sexy. The idea here was a sexy animalic, with herbal and flower notes. El Otro Tigre is the perfume from the Jorge Luis Borges collection. It includes eight perfumes: fruity Alguien Siena(Patchouli, Ylang-Ylang, Cassis), woody-spicy smell of ink and books Biblioteca de Babel (Cinnamon, Cabreuva, Cedar), woody El Mono de la Tinta (Cinnamon, Sandalwood, Copaiba), animalic musky El Otro Tigre (Tuberose, Ambrette, Muscone), woody floral Elogio de la Sombra (Bergamot, Mimosa, Iris), spicy flowery Metafora (Ginger, Jasmine, Pink Pepper), spicy gin scent Pulperia (Elemi, Pepper, Cedarwood), and floral citrus perfume Sur (Davana, Jasmine, Orange).
Serguey Borisov: By the way, have you got the copyright from the Borges copyright-holders?
Julian Bedel: No. In intellectual property you have some amount of freedom to use some quotes. If you are a journalist, you can use the quotes in your own paragraph—it's allowed. The same in music: you can use a short phrase from the musical piece of other composer.
And I think that I can use the names of Borges essays as the source of inspiration for my perfumes that are my poems built from molecules instead of words.
Jorge Luis Borges is world-famous writer with a fantastic imagination and our collection of perfumes is devoted to him, as I tried to express his ideas in perfumes.
Serguey Borisov: And yet again, don't you think that 60 perfumes are too many?
Julian Bedel: I believe that this big collection allows to people to discover that they like florals or they like woods. At the end of the day, all the rest of the 60 fragrances do not matter any longer, it does matter if you find the one fragrance that you like and you do enjoy. Also for me creating all those fragrances is play, my laboratory is my playground. I have no cost limitations in my products, I play with everything no matter how much does it costs—I have 800 ingredients for playing, and if the smell is terrific, I'd better make a small batch of it, than make a cheaper substitution. And it's going to be like that. Why not? Why not make a 200 perfumes? In my case—when we have our own manufacturing unit—we are not limited by the number of bottles and stoppers, or liters of concentrate, or any other factor. I do personal perfumes as well—and that's very limited production.
As a painter and as a musician I believe in hard work; art work should be constant and continuous. To create an artwork, a painting that makes perfect sense about his idea, the artist should leave aside a lot of ready artworks that are almost perfect. The same as in perfumery—to make one perfume perfect, you need to leave many others aside. But I believe in the constant creative process—when you are creating something new every day and every week, you keep creating and creating and creating something, being inspired by new ideas. And I spend 10-12 hours in my laboratory every day so I need to create something. Otherwise it is something that just reminds me of masturbating… New things should come out. We have so much heritage in South America—that's flora and fauna, that's unique places on planet Earth, that's our people and our artists.
Serguey Borisov
Serguey Borisov has been known in the Internet world of perfume under the nickname moon_fish for more than 10 years. Now he writes about perfumes for GQ.ru and Vogue.ru, and contributes on the subject for glossy magazines.
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